Aida Bicaj - June 8, 2026
THE SKIN THEY’RE SELLING YOU ISN’T YOURS
A note on skinfluencers, sponsored serums, and what your face...
THE SKIN THEY’RE SELLING YOU ISN’T YOURSA note on skinfluencers, sponsored serums, and what your face actually needs.Let me be direct with you. I have been an esthetician for over three decades. I trained under Yvan and Josette Allouche, the founders of Biologique Recherche, in Paris. I have put my hands on thousands of faces. I have studied skin the way a physician studies disease, the way a sommelier studies wine, with obsessive, methodical, years-long attention. And what I can tell you, without apology, is this: the person on your screen recommending a serum does not know your skin. They do not know your barrier. They do not know your history. They do not know what you need. They know what they were paid to say. What skinfluencers actually are A skinfluencer is, at their core, a content creator whose job is audience growth and brand revenue. When a brand pays for placement, whether through gifting, a commission structure, or a direct sponsorship, the creator’s obligation is to the brand. It has to be. That is how they live. You are watching a marketing vehicle. A beautiful one, often. An entertaining one, frequently. But a marketing vehicle nonetheless. What you can actually learn from them Quite a lot, if you watch with the right frame. You can learn about ingredients in broad strokes. You can learn about texture, about packaging, about what a product claims to do. You can discover brands you had never heard of. You can develop vocabulary. You can learn that micellair water exists, that micellar cleansing is a category, that double cleansing is a practice worth knowing. Watch for the entertainment. But stop there. Because the moment you open your wallet based on what someone with 400,000 followers told you, you have confused a recommendation for a prescription. The fundamental problem with skinfluencer culture A product that transforms one person’s skin can quietly destroy another’s. This is not a nuance. This is skin biology. A rich, occlusive moisturizer that saves someone with a compromised lipid barrier will suffocate someone who is acne-prone. A potent vitamin C that brightens one complexion will oxidize and irritate another. An exfoliating acid that resurfaces and glows one client will trigger redness and reactivity in the next person through the door. Biologique Recherche has a concept that is foundational to everything I practice: the Skin Instant. It is the idea that your skin has a specific biological state at any given moment, shaped by stress, diet, sleep, hormones, environment, history, and genetics. That state requires a specific response. Not a trending product. A response. No skinfluencer can identify your Skin Instant from behind a camera. No amount of personality, no amount of engagement, no amount of sincerity changes that. When an influencer implies a product will work for you, they are guessing. And when a brand is paying them, they are not guessing neutrally. The bank account question Let me ask you something uncomfortable. Is your skin actually getting better? When you look at your face honestly, in natural light, without a filter, without the optimism of a new purchase: is it improving? Or has the rotation of products grown longer, the spending grown higher, and the results grown more elusive? The skinfluencer economy is built, in part, on a cycle of hope and replacement. A new product generates excitement. Excitement generates content. Content generates sales. Sales fund the next campaign. And six weeks later, a new product appears that promises what the last one did not deliver. Your skin is not a trend cycle. It does not need a new hero product every season. It needs consistency, professional assessment, and a protocol built for its specific biology. The money you have spent following influencer recommendations could have funded two years of professional treatment. That is not a judgment. That is math. Why you will not see Biologique Recherche on a skinfluencer’s page Biologique Recherche does not court influencer placement the way mass or even luxury skincare brands do. The products are formulated to be used within a professional context, assessed and applied by trained hands, within a treatment protocol that is built around the individual. Lait Dermo-S, for instance, one of the most foundational products in the BR protocol, is a milk cleanser that strips away the surface layer to prepare the skin for what follows. In the right hands, for the right Skin Instant, it is extraordinary. BR is not a product you can recommend universally. It was never designed to be. Where to actually go If you want to understand your skin, find a trained esthetician. Someone who has studied skin at a level that required time, rigor, and clinical practice. Someone who will look at your actual face in actual light and build something around what they find. Social media is a wonderful place to develop curiosity. Let it do that. Let it introduce you to ingredients, to brands, to practices you want to learn more about. But when the curiosity becomes a question of what to put on your face, bring that question to someone whose income does not depend on your purchase. Your skin is not a platform. It is not a content opportunity. It is the largest organ of your body, and it deserves more than a sponsored answer. Aida's Substack is free today. But if you enjoyed this post, you can tell Aida's Substack that their writing is valuable by pledging a future subscription. You won't be charged unless they enable payments. |