IN THE HEART OF THE BOURSE DE COMMERCE IN PARIS, ANTHONY VACCARELLO PRESENTED THE SUMMER 26 MENSWEAR COLLECTION. THE SHOW REVOLVED AROUND CLINAMEN, AN INSTALLATION BY CÉLESTE BOURSIER-MOUGENOT — A CIRCULAR BASIN WHERE PORCELAIN BOWLS DRIFT AND COLLIDE. THE MOOD WAS SUSPENDED, SOMEWHERE BETWEEN PARIS AND FIRE ISLAND, WHERE ESCAPE BECAME ELEGANCE, AND DESIRE BECAME A LANGUAGE.
SILHOUETTES WERE SCULPTED BUT NEVER EXAGGERATED. SHAPES FLOATED RATHER THAN CLUNG, WITH WAISTS CINCHED AND SHOULDERS EXTENDED. SILK AND NYLON TRACED THE BODY WITH RESTRAINT. THE PALETTE REMAINED HUSHED — SAND, SALT, PALE OCHRE, DRY MOSS, POOL BLUE. SHORTS RECALLED THOSE ONCE WORN BY A YOUNG YVES — NOT AS REFERENCE, BUT AS RECURRING MEMORY.
NOTABLE GUESTS INCLUDED MODELS ANJA RUBIK, AMELIA GRAY & FRANKIE RAYDER, AS WELL AS ACTORS AARON TAYLOR-JOHNSON, RAMI MALEK & SAM ROCKWELL. CREATIVE TALENTS, CHA EUNWOO, PEGGY GOU, HENRIK PURIENNE – DIRECTORS JIM JARMUSCH AND FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA, WERE ALSO IN ATTENDANCE.
